To Cork Or Not to Cork? That is the Question

Cork has been the traditional seal of choice forNew Zealand, one of largest the wine-producing
vintners and kosher wine bottlers over 400 yearscountries in the world, has led the way with an
of wine-making. Recently though, some vintnersalternative to the alternative: the screw cap. The
have made the switch from cork to screw top.caps resemble the same ones used for sodas and
Cork forms irregularly just as all natural materialsother carbonated beverages complete with
do, and thus can produce irregular quality in thebreak-away safety ring to ensure freshness and
wine it bottles. Corks also require specialsecurity.
equipment (a corkscrew) and can dry out andThe pioneering caps were originally developed in
break apart into the bottle leaving bits in the wine.the 1970s for discount wines, which may be part
But the primary reason for the shift is that corkof why a stigma still surrounds the use of screw
is that it leaves a bad taste in peoples'tops. Many view the screw caps as industrial,
mouths--literally. The chemical 2, 4, 6aesthetically unpleasing, and cheap. Screw caps
trichloroanisole (also known as TCA) is aalso have none of the flair and romance of corks,
compound that forms when chlorine reacts withwhich use Old World technology and add some
mold already present in the cork and formsceremony to wine enjoyment.
what's called "cork taint," detectable to humanSome conservative French wineries refuse to use
taste buds even at six parts per trillion. Cork taintscrew caps outright, both as a matter of
leaves wine with a dull and musty taste and mayaesthetic but also because many of the wines
affect anywhere from 10 - 20% of all bottlesthat mature in French cellars require very slow
sold.oxygenation. Spain has gone further and passed a
Harvesting the cork itself is an environmentallylaw requiring wineries in the country's top eleven
friendly process that does not permanentlywine producing regions to seal with cork instead
damage the tree, but with disease and rapidlyof screw cap, outlawing screw caps and other
disappearing cork forests, new cork trees havesynthetic closures outright.
not been replanted fast enough to replenish supplyThe good news is that screw tops don't seem to
that meets demand. As a result, quality corkimpact the delicious flavor of such kosher wines
wood is difficult to find. With fewer cork treesas Herzog wine, Bartenura moscato, or other
available, wine bottlers are forced to turn to lessmoscato wines. In fact, some say that the
desirable sources of cork, which may have beenmechanically-tightened cap does a better job of
stored in ways that are not suitable for wine.preventing air from reacting with the wine and
Another alternative is synthetic cork made fromthat the flavor is even enhanced by screw caps.
plastic-based substitutes. However, some criticsSo drink up and l'chaim, whether from cork or
say that this leaves an even greater tainted tastecap!
in the wine, this time more like plastic than mold.