Thomas Jefferson's Love Affair With Wine

Although born on the Virginia frontier, Thomasvineyard, they stopped along the way at
Jefferson became the most knowledgeable wineMonticello to visit Jefferson.
connoisseur of his age, and his tastes in wineEarly the next morning, Mazzei and Jefferson
covered the world: France, Italy, Germany,went for a walk through Monticello's hillsides, and
Madeira, Spain, Portugal, Cyprus, Hungary and, ofMazzei found the vineyard land he was looking
course, America.for, a 400-acre tract adjoining Monticello to the
His interests in wine developed early as indicatedeast. He named it "Colle." Jefferson described the
by his 1769 Shadwell wine inventory: 83 bottles ofland that Mazzei selected as "having a southeast
rum, 15 bottles of Madeira, four bottles of "Lisbonaspect and an abundance of lean and meager
wine for common use," and 54 bottles of cider,spots of stony and red soil, without sand,
an inventory that would change radically with theresembling extremely the Côte of Burgundy
passage of time. Exactly when Jefferson decidedfrom Chambertin to Montrachet where the
to design and build his own house is not recorded,famous wines of Burgundy are made."
but the first mention of Monticello (which meansWhat Mazzei and Jefferson talked about on this
"little mountain") is noted in his Garden Book onearly-morning stroll was not recorded, but it
Aug. 3, 1767. A wine cellar, 17 1/2 feet long, 15sparked a lifetime friendship and caused Jefferson
feet wide and 10 feet high, was laid out near ato become a partner in Mazzei's vineyard project,
cider room. The 28-year-old Jefferson and athe first commercial vineyard venture in America.
23-year-old widow, Martha Wales Skelton, wereAs Mazzei remembered in his autobiography, "By
married on New Year's Day, 1772, at the homethe time we returned home, everyone was up.
of her father, John Wayles, and two weeks laterLooking at Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Adams said: 'I see by
they arrived at Monticello on horseback in ayour expression that you have taken him away
snowstorm.from me. I knew you would do that.' Jefferson
It is perhaps apocryphal but Jefferson'ssmiled, and without looking at him, but staring at
great-granddaughter, Sarah N. Randolph, reportsthe table, said: 'Let's have breakfast first and then
that they found a bottle of wine "on a shelfwe'll see what we can do.' "
behind some books" that they shared beforeWhether on that morning walk or later, Jefferson
retiring on their Monticello honeymoon night. It waslearned that Mazzei had grown up in a mountain
the first of many bottles that he would enjoy atvillage in Tuscany, Italy. As a young man, he
home with family and friends. In his account bookstudied medicine at the Santa Maria Nuova
of Sept. 15, 1772, he records liquors and bottlesHospital in Florence, but was dismissed for drinking
on hand, including "about three gallons of rum andwine before taking communion on Holy Thursday.
a half hogshead [271/2 gallons] Madeira, 72 bottlesUndeterred, he went to Leghorn (now Livorno)
of Madeira, 37 bottles of Lisbon wine, 29 bottlesand established a successful medical practice.
small beer, 10 bottles of port and 31 bottles ofBut ever restless, Mazzei left for Smyrna,
miscellaneous in the closet." The year earlier heTurkey, where he continued the practice of
had recorded ten dozen bottles of port, so in themedicine for two and a half years. Bored with life
intervening year, 110 bottles of port had beenin Smyrna and armed with a supply of Turkish
consumed.opium and some other local products, he sailed for
In November 1773, Philip Mazzei, one of the mostEngland in December 1755. In London he sold his
interesting men to enter Jefferson's life, landed inTurkish goods for a sizable profit, rejected offers
Virginia from England with his wife-to-be, herto resume his medical practice and made a living
12-year-old daughter, and ten Italian vignerons.giving Italian-language lessons to the British gentry.
Mazzei arrived with a plan to cultivate EuropeanWith the profits from the sale of the Turkish
grapes, olive trees and the egg of silk worms togoods, Mazzei opened a shop specializing in wines,
make silk. Traveling with Virginia merchantsilks, olive oils, anchovies, parmesan cheese and
Thomas Adams to Adams' home in Augustaother Italian products that were almost impossible
County, where Mazzei expected to establish histo buy in London.