The Tribulations of Exporting Argentine Wine

On November 3, 2004, only 36 hours aftereven more upsides. “Since the financial crisis,
stepping off a plane from Los Angeles to Buenoswe realized that price points are everything and
Aires, Daniel Karlin met the girl he was going tothat’s where Argentina wins,” says Karlin.
marry. They just got married in July.With a lower average cost per liter than any
In the interim, Karlin, with the help of his wifeother major wine-producing country in the world,
Lourdes, started Anuva Wines, a company thatArgentina is growing by leaps and bounds. Not
sources, imports, distributes and markets boutiqueonly have they increased their market share of
wines from Argentina for the U.S. market. Theimported wines by 400% over the last 10 years,
original impetus for the business came from asurpassing Chile to become the number 4
simple observation that tourists to Argentina fell inimported wine by country (behind France, Italy
love with Malbec and Torrontés—theand Australia), but they were the only country
quintessentially Argentine varieties—just likebesides Chile to grow in both dollar value and in
Karlin did when he arrived. The problem was thatvolume when comparing the data of 1st
they had virtually no way of getting more ofSemester 2009 to 1st Semester 2008.
these rare gems in the U.S.Argentina’s imports to the U.S. grew over
Karlin created a wine club to ship specially selected30% in both volume and dollar value. The only
wines from Argentina directly to Americanother country to come close to those values was
tourists who had visited Argentina. They couldChile, while every other country’s imports to
then enjoy these different collections ofthe U.S. have fallen dramatically. France is down
wines—all hand selected by Karlin and a panel27% in value and 11% in volume, Italy 20% and
of wine experts and all from Argentina—in their7%, Australia 5% in value, and Spain, South
homes after returning from their trips. AnuvaAfrica, New Zealand and other minor regions are
Wines now ships these exclusive wines to 34all down as well. Interestingly, the overall wine
states in collections featuring limited productions ofmarket continues to grow in the U.S. for the 15th
the classics Malbec and Torrontés and alsoconsecutive year in addition to the fact that
unique varieties like Bonarda and Tannat. Settingimported wines as a segment are also growing.
up this home delivery service, however,“We think we’re in the right business at
wasn’t as simple as Karlin thought it would be.the right time,” says Karlin. “Malbec and
“We spent a lot of money on lawyers to betourism to Argentina are very popular right now
able to understand how to ship wine tobut we need that trend to continue.”
people,” Karlin says with a smile. The alcoholicSo why isn’t everyone jumping on this
beverage industry in the U.S. is highly regulated. Inbusiness? Karlin says barriers to market entry
addition to Anuva’s shipping service to clientsinclude proficiency in Spanish, the cultural gap,
and wine club members across the U.S., theywineries without websites, wineries with websites
have the only wine-tasting service for tourists inbut with incorrect contact information, corruption
Buenos Aires. Anuva also offers in-home wineand dishonesty, stolen domestic shipments in
tastings in select cities in the U.S.Argentina, poor understanding of label regulations,
Karlin grins again when he talks about hisbrettanomyces (a bacteria found in older wineries
discovery of Julian Cavagnaro’s Viñacreating a “barnyard” aroma and
María vineyard. Cavagnaro’s greatflavor—a big problem for some Argentine
grandfather immigrated to Mendoza from Italywineries) contamination, the ins and outs of
and settled their ancestral land in 1891. Now Julian,international shipping of controlled substances and
the namesake, makes a little-known yetU.S. import law and logistics issues.
award-winning, 4000-bottle production,“Our learning curve was steep and
single-vineyard Malbec called Cavagnaro Reserva.treacherous and we made a lot of mistakes,”
“I shared it with some retailers in New YorkKarlin says, listing such setbacks as delayed
and Los Angeles. They all guessed that the retailshipments, extra costs, interactions with customs
price to be double what we sell it for,” Karlinofficials, and complicated paperwork. Only now,
remarks.after three years of operation, does he feel
Because of its success with brands likeready for his expansion into wholesale.
Cavagnaro, Anuva is now branching into the“We’re getting better with age.
wholesale side of the business where they see