How Smoke Taint Can Get Into Wine

With numerous wildfire outbreaks all over the2. There is a variation in smoke taint between
world in the last few years, vineyards adjacent todifferent grape varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon,
these horrific blazes are having to cope with aPinot Noir and Sangiovese have a high
very new problem. As if there are'nt enoughsusceptibility, whereas Shiraz and Merlot are found
difficulties already within the wine industry, here isto be less susceptible.
yet another one. But this is not like any of the3. Grapevines are most sensitive to smoke
others, it is smoke taint in wine, and causesexposure from 7 days after veraison (when the
concern to winemakers.skins become translucent) through to harvest
Most of the fires will have been started during antime. Prior to this advanced ripening stage, the
exceptionally hot spell of weather, or possibly asensitivity is somewhat reduced. As the grapes
lightning strike on parched ground that has notripen, the skins become lighter and thinner and
seen rain for some time. If this is a sign of whattherefore are more easily penetrable by smoke,
is to come with changing weather patterns, thenso any 'damage' would be immediately prior to
there are some extraordinary issues that will needpicking.
to be addressed in the future - and one of them4. Harvesting mechanically or by hand has a big
is how to rid the smoke taint from the wine.influence on the concentration of 'total guaiacol' in
How the smoke gets in the winethe volumes of juice collected. Machine harvesting
One only has to stand next to a fire or barbequeaccounts for around 98% of the 'total guaiacol'
to come away with your clothes smelling ofcoming through in the pressings and lees, while
smoke. The garments will then have to be hunghand picking is in the region of 40%.
out in the open and aired to rid them of the smell.5. The concentration of guaiacol in the juice
Smoke clings fast and is not easy to dispel.increases with the maceration time, and more so
Getting it out of wine, which has had the smokeyif leaves are being macerated as well.
aroma in it since the grapes were pressed, is not6. 30 minutes of a single heavy exposure of
straight forward. Being similar to the smoking ofsmoke to grapevines is sufficient to produce
fish where the fillets have been hung up in asmoke taint in wine, providing that the exposure
smoke filled building; the grapes in the vineyardshas occurred during a period of high sensitivity.
have absorbed the smoke for some time.7. The smokey character does not seem to
Smoke tainted aromas have often been describedcarry over from one year to the next.
as burnt, burn toast, burnt bacon and phenolic, notGrapevines that have absorbed smoke in one
too appealing. To an extent the disagreeableseason do not then present the same affect in
qualities of the taint depend on the type of fuelthe fruit the next season.
being consumed by the fire. Bush fires and coniferHow to remove the smokiness from the wine
forests have differing chemical structures to sayFining agents have been used, mostly without
those of open grassland fires.success apart from activated charcoal. The use
If smoke is readily absorbed by the vines andof charcoal pre-fermentation to reduce guaiacol
grapes, then the flora of a certain wine regionconcentration is effective at rates of 1.0 g/l to 1.6
must also leave its imprint not only on the grapesg/l.
but also on the finished wine.A process called 'Reverse Osmosis' can be used
Another area worthy of note is that of theto remove compounds from wine. Some
toasting level of a wine barrel, and the flavourcompounds can be cleaned from the filtrate, and
intensity which is selectively sought bythe remaining wine then returned back into the
winemakers. These same toasting levels impartsystem. As guaiacol is a fairly small compound
some similar compounds into a finished wine aswith small molecules it can be removed, but other
fire smoke does - but this is desired andlarger compounds which have not been removed
controlled.can easily dominate the aroma.
Some established scientific parameters aboutIf the smoke taint in the wine is low, this removal
smoke taint in winemethod is ideal as only one or two passes are
necessary. However, heavily tainted wines
1. Grape vines, leaves and skins absorb mainlyrequiring several passes run the risk of having
guaiacol and 4 methyl guaiacol from the smokesome of the fruit characters removed as well as
(as well as other compounds). It has been shownthe taint.
that smoke taint is not just the consequence ofResults from reverse osmosis treatment of red
small fire particulates falling onto the grapes, but iswines have shown a noticeable reduction in the
more systemic. Washing the grapes vigorously orconcentration of guaiacol by roughly one third, and
removing the waxy surface of the grape, has notests are on-going. While the fires no doubt will
effect on smoke taint present. What actuallycontinue to burn, research is helping the wine
happens is that the fiery compounds penetrateindustry to cope with the problem of smoke taint
right into the vines, leaves and skins.in wine.