Enjoy Scenic Backroads Of Historic Sonoma Wine Country

The California wine country in and near Sonomabegins to see just how important wine and
County is known for its world-class wines, butgrapes are to the local economy. You can get
you don't have to be a wine aficionado to marvelstarted at one of the many wine tasting rooms in
at this area's scenic backroads and the abundancetown or wait until you visit the wineries along the
of historical attractions all within a short drive.way - in this part of Sonoma County, a glass of
Case in point: a drive up the central part of thepremium wine is never far away.
county that begins in the historic city of Petaluma.A local resident directed us north and west on
We had spent an enjoyable weekend on aDry Creek Road, a country road that almost
previous trip in the town of Sonoma - theseems European it is so lush and colorful. As
best-known visitor destination in the county and apromised, the road meanders through vineyards
less corporate, less developed version of nearbyand bright fields of flowers, offering mystic vistas
Napa - but this time we wanted to get off theof the nearby hills. We passed farmhouse settings
beaten path a bit and experience the Sonomaso idyllic they seemed like they were created for
County countryside. Because we had heard aboutfairy tales. And, of course, every couple miles or
the historic downtown buildings there, we decidedless there was another winery, many with tasting
our first stop would be Petaluma, a city of aboutrooms beckoning the traveler to stop in and just
60,000 people that is about 32 miles north of San"drink up" some of this famous Sonoma County
Francisco.atmosphere.
Driving up from Southern California, we wentThe Dry Creek Road runs parallel to Highway 101
straight to the Sheraton Petaluma to rest up andfor several miles and then we took a right on
begin a day of exploration the following day. ThisCanyon Road to cross back under the freeway
particular hotel is located on the Petaluma Riverand head over to Geyserville, just east of 101.
with its full-fledged marina providing both moorageThis town of about a thousand souls is home to
for local boaters and ambiance for the hotel. Thesome inns and is known for its location right in the
river also provides a pleasant backdrop for hikingheart of wine country. It's estimated that about
trails that begin at the hotel and take you several70 wineries are within a 15-minute radius of town.
miles into the local marshland - the perfect startFrom Geyserville we headed south on scenic
to a sunny day in Sonoma County.Highway 128, which eventually climbs out of the
After a brisk morning walk we drove just avalley, over and through the hills and, finally, down
couple of miles to Downtown Petaluma, whichinto Napa County and the historic town of
was just as advertised. Fortunately, theCalistoga. This area was settled back in the
downtown area survived the Big San Franciscomid-19th Century by Samuel Brannan, who
earthquake of the early 20th Century. The resultpublished San Franciso's first English language
is a great collection of historic buildings, bothnewspaper and was California's first millionaire. He
business and residential. It's all within easy walkingwas interested in Calistoga's hot springs so he
distance and it was fun to pick up local publicationspurchased more than 2,000 acres, where he
and do our own historic walking tour of the area.wanted to build a spa similar to Saratoga in New
The river adds a special feeling to the downtownYork. It opened in 1862, and was an immediate hit
area and it's apparent that the locals have putwith the rich and famous of the day.
great emphasis on creating boardwalks, specialThe privileged still come to Calistoga - along with
docks and other amenities to add to the area'splenty of ordinary people. The appeal remains the
overall charm.area's hot springs, and several inns and resorts
As we ventured outward a few blocks from theoffer a hot spring experience as part of their
downtown, we were awed by rows and rows ofamenities. Still a small town with only about 5,000
Victorian homes, most in good repair. The historicpeople, Calistoga prides itself on being a center of
downtown of Petaluma is so treasured that it iswellness that attracts visitors looking for
on the National Register of Historic Places. It soontherapeutic benefits from the hot springs. No
became apparent why so many people choose toneed to stay overnight to enjoy the hot springs;
use Petaluma as a base of operations forday spas offer visitors the chance to dip and
exploring nearly 200 wineries in Sonoma County.drive.
The area's history is formally celebrated at theWe enjoyed the down-home feel of Calistoga, a
Petaluma Historical Library and Museum, wheremain street that seems a bit Western and -
the building and everything inside are part of theexpensive spa resorts notwithstanding - not just
town's history. Also, about three miles east offor the affluent. We especially enjoyed spending
town, we came across the Petaluma Adobesome time over at the Sharpsteen Museum
State Historic Park, a 41-acre park that featureswhere they have a large diorama depicting
the former adobe ranch of General MarianoCalistoga as it looked like when it was settled by
Guadalupe Vallejo. Dating back to 1834, the houseBrannan. The museum was a project of Ben
is a historical landmark and today featuresSharpsteen, an animator, producer and director
authentic furniture and interpretive displays. Afterfor Walt Disney Studios.
our morning of history it was time to venture onCalistoga was an ideal stop for the day, and put
with our daytrip by driving about 30 miles northus in position for a drive further into the Napa
on Highway 101 to the quaint town of Healdsburg.Valley for another day trip that was bound to
The town derives its name from Harmon Heald,bombard the senses just as this day's journey
an Ohio entrepreneur who initially set up the townhad. It was a backroad odyssey that had shown
grid back in the 1850's and sold lots for $15us some of the best that California wine country
apiece. Healdsburg was built around a Spanish-stylehas to offer - that is, that doesn't come in a
plaza which, today, remains the centerpiece of abottle.
downtown that still retains many historic buildings.AT A GLANCE
The town has something of a Mayberry feel withWHERE: This journey begins in Petaluma, about 32
its Sweet Shop selling gumballs on the corner andmiles north of San Francisco, and ends at
institutions like the Raven Performing ArtsCalistoga, about 27 miles north of Napa. You'll
Theater that hosts local plays and featurestravel through some of the most beautiful parts
dinosaur rock acts such as Bo Diddly, theof California wine country.
performer in town during our visit.WHAT: California wine country is the perfect
But while the town may seem as simple asantidote to big-city hustle and bustle: idyllic farms,
Mayberry, life here is definitely more sophisticated.colorful fields of flowers, stately wineries with
There is a high per-capita number of gourmetvineyards clinging to the rolling hills.
restaurants, and high-end galleries, jewelry, apparelWHEN: Any time of the year.
and other gifts are clustered around the plaza.WHY: To enjoy historic attractions, gorgeous
More than anything, though, Healdsburg is ascenery, upscale shopping and - oh, yes, great
jumping off point for gorgeous drives through thewine-tasting.
Central Sonoma County countryside where one