| A drab, rundown piece of property sat seven | | | | one-lane bridge with rapids below racked my |
| years on the market. Since my visit in 2003 it | | | | nerves. If this happens, turn around, and take the |
| gained an amenity a year, instituted by the Gaines | | | | north entrance. If you continue on here, once you |
| family, owners since 1987. It's a progressive | | | | are through the gate you'll crest a hill where the |
| hide-away and I doubt they'll be running out of | | | | road turns right and drops to view the main |
| room to continue further additions. Highland Ranch | | | | yellow ranch house, stables, and cabins. |
| is tucked away next to Hendy Woods State Park | | | | The north entrance has the "Highland Ranch" sign |
| featuring a hundred miles of trails in an old growth | | | | by it. It is about twelve miles north of the gas |
| redwood forest. It sits a mile and half as the | | | | station, and again you will have to hang a left. It is |
| crow flies above Philo, California at an elevation of | | | | a winding,uphill climb through the woods on |
| 1000 feet obscured further by surrounding apple | | | | another dirt road. You might feel lost, as I did, but |
| orchards, vineyards, and nearby olive orchards in | | | | if you turned at the sign, you're on the right trail. |
| Anderson Valley, Mendocino County. Californians | | | | Locals make regular trips to relax with a meal |
| call this the North Shore. | | | | served home-style and casual in the expansive |
| This ranch stands alone for being the oldest | | | | dining area, three times a day. The kitchen is |
| working guest ranch in the hills there. It's not an | | | | equipped with a commercial stove and oven, an |
| architectural masterpiece, but its countenance | | | | island cutting table, sinks and handy pots hanging |
| takes a person back to the 'good old days'. You | | | | overhead giving an "old World" feel. The dining |
| see, I'm from Wyoming and I've seen plenty of | | | | room has three long tables with a mix of period |
| ranches and even worked on some, so I was | | | | chairs encircling each one. An interesting collection |
| really taken back. The fully restored yellow, | | | | of plates dots every wall and cornice. The view |
| hundred-year-old ranch is welcoming and cozy. | | | | through the windows in the dining room showcase |
| You might think about taking a peek. The | | | | the flower garden, hummingbird feeders, and fruit |
| down-home, friendly atmosphere and home | | | | weighing down grapevines and fig trees in |
| cooked gourmet meals brings returning guests | | | | October. |
| year after year. | | | | George is particularly proud of his chef who |
| According to George Gaines when he purchased | | | | carves the main entrée' at the dinner |
| the property the roof sagged and weeds grew | | | | meal. The rest is left up to the guests. It sits |
| through the porch, walls and windows. He | | | | there ready to grab from a vast array of |
| commented that he wasn't too concerned over | | | | gourmet foods, breads and desserts, too, all |
| costs at the time, because, after all, the water | | | | homemade. |
| was free when it rained. I found George quite | | | | Apple orchards abound in the vicinity. George |
| amusing considering he is a Princeton alumnus and | | | | added a hundred and fifty young fruit trees to |
| retired lawyer. | | | | the property that year. There are pear, fig, |
| Walls in the main house are adorned with the life | | | | quince, nectarine, and of course grapes, which end |
| and times of the Gaines family antics and a | | | | up incorporated into many of the desserts. |
| collection of George's well-worn hats. Historical | | | | Cocktails and appetizers are served nightly. You |
| pictures dot the walls, including a photo of his | | | | might get salmon, imported cheeses, pates, |
| days as the Captain of Princeton's rowing team | | | | brochettes...and cocktails, as much as you want. |
| taken in the 1950s. | | | | Some wines served are local; Roederer, Navarro, |
| There were a lot of favored parts of my trip; | | | | Lazy Creek, and Handley, among others that |
| the solitude and scenery alone, made my heart | | | | aren't so local. |
| throb, much less the offering of a "welcome | | | | Two bottles of wine adds décor to each |
| home" atmosphere. It was my first taste of that | | | | table every night and wine lessons begin, along |
| particular part of the California coastal mountains | | | | with lively conversation. A number of languages I |
| and I drank it all in on horseback. I retract that, I | | | | didn't know volleyed about. The host speaks five; |
| drank more in on wine, too. | | | | French, German, Spanish,Italian, oh, yes, and |
| I received a "grape" education. The climate is | | | | English. George exclaimed one night, "It could be |
| indeed cool in October. I learned the well-drained | | | | Flemish, you never know!" |
| soil conditions and coolness offer growers an | | | | Breakfast is unlike your own home. Coffee is hot |
| envrironment similar to Champagne, France. (By all | | | | and ready when you get there, along with tea, |
| means, take long-johns.). Here grapes mature | | | | fresh squeezed orange juice, a variety of cereals |
| slowly balancing acid and sugar. | | | | and home-baked breads. Dive in from 8:00 a.m. to |
| It seemed everyone stayed somewhat to | | | | 9:30 a.m. Delicious papas frias with garlic are made |
| themselves to relax or just take care of business. | | | | along with a choice of meats, eggs any fashion, |
| According to reports a fifth generation Roederer | | | | and waffles or pancakes any size. Flowers add an |
| searched since the late 70s for enviromental | | | | artistic touch to the plates from morning to night. |
| conditions similar to his French property and he | | | | You can even eat them. |
| found it in Mendocino County. His nearly 600 acre | | | | Each of the eight cabins has a fireplace and |
| estate is hidden, too, just north of the ranch. | | | | phone, propane heaters, and electric blankets if |
| There are many vintners in the area if you want | | | | the North Shore area chills your bones. Wireless |
| to go off on a wine tasting trip, but at dinner | | | | Internet is available in the main house along with a |
| meals you can taste as much as you want at the | | | | satellite TV if a sports lover just can't live without |
| ranch. | | | | it. A piano and several guitars await playing fingers |
| How to get there. | | | | and the conservatory walls are lined with books. |
| There are two entrances to the ranch, the north | | | | Dutchman's Pond, Highland Lake, and Navarro |
| and the south. I drove in from the south, taking | | | | River are nearby. Part of the décor of the |
| Highway 101 out of San Francisco, across the | | | | east side of the front porch is fishing poles up for |
| Golden Gate Bridge, through Sausalito, Petaluma, | | | | grabs. Take advantage of the boat or canoe. |
| and Rohnert Park. At junction 128 West where a | | | | Of the many things to do, there is (skeet) |
| grand redwood lumber mill sits, turn left. Follow | | | | shooting along with firearm safety training. An |
| that road approximately one mile and turn right. | | | | in-ground pool is down by the tennis court, and |
| This is the actual Highway 128 and Philo is | | | | hammocks hang by the main house. There's |
| twenty-five more miles. Watch for the town of | | | | more, if you have a lot of energy. Active hikers |
| Booneville and you'll know you are headed in the | | | | or bikers (BYOB) will have a ball. The horses have |
| right direction. | | | | daily workout routines, too. Gosh, you can even |
| It is a narrow and winding road, doted on by | | | | get married there if you want. |
| sentinels of eucalyptus, redwood, conifer and oak | | | | The health conscious food is joined by other |
| forming a canopy. You're engulfed as you | | | | healing venue offerings. After a hike or horse ride |
| maneuver the twists and turns. It's a leisurely, | | | | get a massage, or later do some yoga at the |
| constitutional drive that will stroke you with shade | | | | on-site Yurt. These two are new features, so I |
| and slap you awake if you get too lulled, with | | | | missed out. |
| glimpses of sun. | | | | If you go in October dress warm. I took my |
| Philo is a small grower's community and in the | | | | long-johns, so I wasn't cold. I carry them with me |
| middle of town at 8500 Highway 128 you can | | | | wherever I go. I'm from Wyoming, remember! |
| turn left to the private entrance of the ranch. The | | | | Contact Jim Gaines for details. |
| landmark is the Union 76 gas station. You'll need | | | | Highland Ranch |
| the gate code to go this way, so call ahead for it. | | | | Jim and George Gaines |
| You'll reach a "Y", where the road turns to dirt. | | | | P.O. Box 150 |
| Stay to the left here. | | | | Philo, CA |
| If you get to the locked iron gate without a code, | | | | Tel. |
| you might be glad you did. Driving over a skinny, | | | | |