| To the experienced brewer, these should come | | | | style of beer you want to brew will dictate your |
| off as common sense. But, it's also easy to | | | | mash temperature. |
| forget some of these when you are juggling hop | | | | 6. Clean all your equipment thoroughly before and |
| additions, equipment malfunctions and other brew | | | | after use. Take the extra time to clean up after |
| day distractions, such as chasing kids or dogs | | | | you brew. It will make your brew day so much |
| away from 7 gallons of boiling hot liquids. | | | | easier. Rinse the break and hop materials off of |
| 1. Start with fresh ingredients. This may sound | | | | your immersion chiller. Get all the grain out of |
| pretty lame, but you'd be surprised how long | | | | your mash tun. Wash your brew kettle and your |
| some of that liquid malt extract sits around in | | | | stirring spoon. It's easy to be tired after a 6-8 |
| your local home brew shop. Online vendors like | | | | hour brew session. Take the extra 20-30 mins. to |
| Adventures in Home brewing, Northern Brewer | | | | clean up after yourself. Your beer and your wife |
| and Midwest Supplies have a high turnaround on | | | | girlfriend/significant other will be glad, too. |
| ingredients, with some of them receiving | | | | 7. Check your gravity 20 mins. before your boil |
| shipments each week. If you are an all-grain | | | | ends. Adjust hop schedule accordingly. I don't |
| brewer and buy your grain pre-crushed, try to | | | | know how many times I've finished brewing and |
| use them the week you receive them. If you | | | | had way too much wort that was low gravity or |
| cannot brew right away, store the crushed grain | | | | too little that was too high that I had to dilute. |
| in a refrigerator, where they will keep for a few | | | | Get a refractometer and check your gravity. If |
| weeks. | | | | you do it 20 mins. before the boil ends, you can |
| 2. Use a yeast starter and use the correct | | | | keep your late hop additions where they need to |
| amount of yeast. First, make sure you refrigerate | | | | be. Nothing like flaming out and then seeing that |
| your yeast when it arrives - whether it is dry or | | | | your gravity is off and you need to continue |
| liquid. Dry yeast isn't as sensitive as liquid, but if | | | | boiling to reach your desired gravity. For beers |
| you don't plan on using it right away, refrigerate it. | | | | that aren't hoppy this isn't as much of a problem. |
| If you order online during the summer, ask the | | | | But who needs to be scrambling around in the last |
| home brew store to pack your liquid yeast in an | | | | few minutes of boil time anyway? |
| ice pack. If you plan on brewing a high-gravity | | | | 8. Cool your wort quickly. As I mentioned |
| beer such as a Double IPA, or an Imperial Stout, | | | | previously, once your wort drops below 170F, |
| don't just throw the contents of the smack pack | | | | bacteria and wild yeast like to jump in your beer. |
| or the vial in the wort - that tiny amount of | | | | Well, maybe not that dramatically, but just the |
| yeast will become stressed and your beer will not | | | | same - invest in a wort chiller - either immersion |
| complete fermentation. You need lots of yeast | | | | or counterflow and use it to get your wort to |
| for a big beer! Check for the correct amount of | | | | yeast pitching temperatures (around 70F) as |
| yeast to pitch for the beer that you are brewing | | | | quickly as possible (under 20-30 mins is ideal). In |
| and then make a yeast starter. A yeast starter is | | | | the summer this is a bit harder using tap water |
| basically a smaller amount of un-hopped wort that | | | | (depending on where you live). Look into a |
| you add your yeast to in order to let your yeast | | | | pre-chiller or use a pump to recirculate icy cold |
| be fruitful and multiply! | | | | water. The quicker you can get your wort chilled |
| 3. Assemble all the materials you'll need BEFORE | | | | and into your fermenter, the less likely you are to |
| you start brewing. Nothing is worse than | | | | introduce bacteria into your beer. |
| scrambling around looking for ingredients or | | | | 9. Sanitize everything that will come in contact |
| equipment during your brew day. It makes it very | | | | with your wort after it drops below 170F. CLEAN, |
| easy to forget to add certain ingredients or | | | | then SANITIZE. You don't have to sterilize |
| miss-time them. I write down each step of my | | | | everything or wear a biohazard suit while you |
| brew day and the equipment/ingredients that I'll | | | | brew, but do get all the chunks off by cleaning |
| need for each step. Then, before I start my | | | | and then use a no-rinse sanitizer such as One |
| mash, I lay everything out that I'll need on the | | | | Step, Iodophor or Star San (my favorite). I will |
| bed in the bedroom next to the door to the patio | | | | sanitize my better bottle fermenter and then turn |
| where I brew. This way, nothing will become | | | | it upside down (bacteria cannot fall up) or cap it |
| contaminated by outdoor bugs or even airborne | | | | with some tin foil that has also been sanitized. The |
| grain particles. It will be there waiting for me to | | | | foam from the Star San will continue to sanitize |
| use. Check your equipment, too. Are any of your | | | | while it is in contact with the container. Don't fear |
| valves leaking? Is that new mash tun manifold | | | | the foam, it is your friend. Pour your beer right on |
| operational? It's never fun sticking your hands into | | | | top of it - it has no effect on the final taste. |
| a 160F grain bed in order to reassemble your | | | | 10. Ferment at correct temperature. This is |
| manifold. Or realizing that the leak around your ball | | | | usually the last thing a new brewer does to help |
| valve that you forgot about is not leaking enough | | | | their beer - control their fermentation |
| to lose pints from your batch. | | | | temperature. And it has the arguably largest |
| 4. Check your water. Rule of thumb is: If it | | | | effect on the finished product. I absolutely killed a |
| doesn't taste good, then it won't make good beer. | | | | pale ale by fermenting it at room temperature in |
| Also, if you are an all-grain brewer, check your pH. | | | | the summer. It ended up tasting like a banana |
| If your mash water is too alkaline, you won't | | | | daquiri. Yuck! I had been so careful to do |
| achieve proper starch conversion. A product such | | | | everything right, but it still tasted horrible. Buy a |
| as Five Star's 5.2 pH Stabilizer will guarantee that | | | | used refrigerator or chest freezer and purchase a |
| your mash water will be the optimum pH for | | | | temperature controller and use it to dial in your |
| conversion. It is relatively inexpensive for the | | | | temperature to the degree. You will also then be |
| degree of confidence it will give you. Just don't go | | | | able to brew lagers correctly. It is one of the best |
| overboard, adding too much will lend a chalky, | | | | steps a homebrewer can make to improve the |
| minerally or salty taste to your finished beer. If | | | | taste of their beer. |
| you want to use tap water, contact your water | | | | And now, the bonus tip that you've been waiting |
| company, they will be happy to mail you a | | | | for... 11. Don't drink home brew while your brew |
| complete water profile for your community. You | | | | home brew. or any other beer for that matter. |
| can then adjust for Cloramine and other chemical | | | | Seriously. I know that brewing is fun. But if you |
| levels in your water. Campden tablets are also a | | | | wait until you're done to drink, you will thank me |
| cheap way to adjust your water. | | | | for it. In my house, brew days are party days, so |
| 5. Mash at the correct temperature. This is usually | | | | this was the hardest step for me to take. Even |
| the culprit to new all-grain brewers who complain | | | | harder than making a stir plate from old computer |
| that their beer is too watery or too sweet for | | | | parts for my yeast starters, making my |
| the style. You should be mashing between | | | | homemade mash tun manifold or my immersion |
| 140-160F. The closer to 140F you mash, the | | | | chiller. Resist the temptation. You'll find that you |
| dryer (less sweet) and thinner (watery) your | | | | remember all your additions, hit all your |
| finished beer will be. Lower mash temps result in | | | | temperatures and your times and won't be nearly |
| more fermentables being produced - giving the | | | | as frantic in case you have an equipment failure. |
| yeast more to chew on. Higher mash temps will | | | | Or if you run out of propane half way through |
| allow the conversion of longer chain sugars | | | | your boil! Be alert and enjoy the fruits of your |
| (harder to ferment) resulting in a sweeter beer. | | | | labor when you get done. Once you are done and |
| The yeast has a harder time converting these | | | | you're waiting for that airlock to start bubbling, |
| long-chain sugars, so more of them will remain in | | | | kick back and pop open that beer - it will taste so |
| your beer for the long-haul. Depending on which | | | | great! |